Do you ever wonder why your 20 gauge reloads do not perform the same way twice? Many shooters find that the secret to a perfect shot starts long before they pull the trigger. It begins with the hull. While 12 gauge components are easy to find, the world of 20 gauge reloading can feel like a frustrating maze of confusing brands and inconsistent quality. Choosing the wrong hull often leads to crimping issues, loose primers, or even dangerous pressure spikes that can ruin your day at the range.
This post is here to clear up the confusion. We will break down the differences between straight-wall and tapered hulls so you can stop guessing and start loading with confidence. You will learn which hulls offer the longest lifespan and which ones provide the tightest patterns for your specific needs. By understanding the unique chemistry and construction of these shells, you will save money and improve your accuracy on the field.
Stop wasting time with trial and error that leaves you empty-handed. Whether you are a competitive trap shooter or a weekend hunter, selecting the right hull is the most important step in your process. Let’s dive into the best options on the market and help you build the perfect 20 gauge load for your next outing.
Top 20 Gauge Hulls For Reloading Recommendations
- 20GA Shotshell Reloading Block – Holds up to 25 shotgun shells securely, ensuring stability and precise positioning during every reloading session.
- Made in USA, Durable Plastic Construction – High-quality plastic ensures long-lasting performance, lightweight yet sturdy for reliable use by beginners and experienced reloaders.
- Efficient and Organized Reloading – Keeps 20 gauge shells upright and organized, making handloading or press setups faster and more accurate.
- Essential Reloading Accessory – A must-have tool for 20GA enthusiasts, streamlining your shotshell reloading workflow for consistent results.
- Stable and Reliable Design – Provides a secure base for every 20GA shotshell, supporting safe, efficient, and repeatable reloading.
- Strong one-piece 3D printed design!
- Chucks into any 1/4"; or 3/8";' drill or drill press.
- Spins and creates heat and when pressure is applied conditions the hull to remove signs of old crimp
- Streamlines shell packing to save time and effort.
- Designed to fit standard 20 gauge shell boxes for quick setup.
- Durable plastic construction built for repeated use.
- Keeps shells neatly aligned, improving labeling and organization.
- Compact and portable, ideal for on-site reloading stations.
- Reams and tapers hull openings for easy component placement and better crimps. Made from a long-lasting aluminum oxide abrasive, this tool easily attaches to your drill or drill press.
- 12GA SHOTSHELL RELOADING BLOCK – Holds up to 25 shotgun shells securely, ensuring stable positioning and consistent handling during every reloading session.
- DURABLE PLASTIC CONSTRUCTION – Made from high-quality material for long-lasting performance, lightweight yet strong enough for repeated bench use.
- EFFICIENT BENCH ORGANIZATION – Keeps 12 gauge shells upright, separated, and easy to access, improving speed and accuracy in handloading or press setups.
- ESSENTIAL RELOADING ACCESSORY – A practical tool for 12GA enthusiasts, helping maintain an organized and smooth reloading workflow.
- STABLE AND RELIABLE DESIGN – Provides a solid base for each shotshell, supporting safe, controlled, and repeatable reloading operations.
The Ultimate Guide to Choosing 20 Gauge Hulls for Reloading
Reloading your own 20 gauge shotgun shells is a rewarding hobby. It saves money and lets you customize your loads for trap shooting or hunting. However, the quality of your finished shell depends entirely on the hull you start with. Not all hulls are created equal.
Key Features to Look For
When shopping for hulls, look for consistency. You want hulls that are uniform in length and thickness. This ensures that your crimps are tight and your pressure remains safe. Check the base of the hull for any signs of rust or deformation. A clean, smooth base is essential for reliable feeding in your shotgun.
Important Materials
Most modern hulls are made from plastic. However, the internal construction varies. High-quality hulls feature a plastic base wad. Older or cheaper hulls might use a paper base wad. Plastic base wads are superior because they do not absorb moisture. Moisture can cause the internal pressure of your shell to change, which is dangerous. Stick to plastic-on-plastic construction whenever possible.
Factors That Improve or Reduce Quality
Several factors determine how many times you can reuse a hull:
- Plastic Type: Harder, premium plastics last longer through multiple firing cycles.
- Brass Height: High-brass hulls are often built to handle higher pressures. However, low-brass hulls are perfectly fine for target loads.
- Crimp Memory: Good hulls “remember” their original fold. This makes them easier to reload without the plastic cracking or splitting.
- Previous Use: Avoid hulls that have been sitting in the rain or mud. Debris inside the hull can ruin your reloading equipment.
User Experience and Use Cases
For target shooters, high-volume hulls like the Remington STS or Winchester AA are the gold standard. They are designed to be reloaded many times. If you are hunting, you might prefer a hull that you do not mind losing in the field. In that case, cheaper, “one-and-done” hulls are a better choice. Always keep your hulls organized by brand and type. Mixing different brands in the same batch will lead to inconsistent crimps and poor performance.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How many times can I reload a 20 gauge hull?
A: Premium hulls can often be reloaded 5 to 10 times. Budget hulls may only last for one or two cycles before the plastic starts to split.
Q: Can I mix different brands of hulls in one batch?
A: No. Different brands have different internal volumes. Mixing them will change the pressure of your shells and result in bad crimps.
Q: What is a “base wad” and why does it matter?
A: The base wad is the internal piece at the bottom of the hull. Plastic base wads are safer and more durable than paper ones.
Q: How do I know if a hull is unsafe to reload?
A: If you see cracks near the crimp, rust on the metal head, or if the primer pocket feels loose, throw the hull away.
Q: Do I need special equipment for 20 gauge hulls?
A: Yes. You need a 20 gauge specific reloading press or specific dies for your current press. You cannot use 12 gauge equipment for 20 gauge shells.
Q: Should I clean my hulls before reloading?
A: It is not necessary to wash them. Simply wipe off any loose dirt or debris from the outside before you start.
Q: Does the color of the hull matter?
A: No. Color is purely cosmetic. However, many reloaders use specific colors to identify different load types (like birdshot vs. slugs).
Q: Are low-brass hulls weaker than high-brass hulls?
A: Not necessarily. The brass height mostly relates to the original intended pressure of the shell, not the strength of the plastic tube.
Q: What is “crimp memory”?
A: This is the ability of the plastic to fold back into its original shape during the reloading process.
Q: Where can I find load data for my specific hulls?
A: Always consult the powder manufacturer’s website or a reputable reloading manual. Never guess your load data.